First made in 1978, the Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé is produced only in the very best years, and then in extremely small quantities. It's a rare wine with a refined character that offers impressive peach, lemon, strawberry and smoke notes, distinct oyster shell complexity, and a saline minerality. Very fine and capable of ageing for two decades with ease, with the potential to go longer.

The 2023 Champans is one of my favourite wines from this cellar, as it is in many vintages. It offers lush, forward black- and blue-fruit aromas, with hints of flowers, earth and leather. The supple yet supportive tannins and a plump mouthfeel (from the dense extract) lead to a lingering finish. The grapes come from d'Angerville's superb holdings here of almost 4ha. This seductive wine should open in three to five years, and will easily stay at the top of its form for 20 years or more. Drinking window: 2030-2050. Score - 95. (Charles Curtis, MW, decanter.com, Jan. 9, 2025)